The Benriach distillery and its brand is one of several Scottish single malt whiskies that have gone through something of a re-invention and transformation in recent years. Located towards the northern end of Speyside, not far south of Elgin, Benriach has gone from relative obscurity to much-adored in less than two decades. Attention and interest in the brand is set to further grow with the re-introduction of the Benriach 16, styled on the label as Benriach – The Sixteen.
Category: Reviews
Reviews of whiskies
Talisker 45yo Glacial Edge
If there’s one distillery that evokes some of the more dramatic images and sentiments in the world of Scotch whisky, it is surely Talisker. As a distillery and as a single malt, it cuts across the full spectrum of whisky’s nuances and features: Words often associated with Talisker include coastal, peat, remote, Highlands, sweet, iodine, Isle of Skye, wormtubs, smoky, brine, visitor centre, old, sea loch, Johnnie Walker, aged……it is all things Scotland, and has been since 1830. Fans of Talisker single malt have been thrilled to see its core-range and other portfolio offerings expand in recent times. From the widely available 10 year old, to the some of unique expressions in the Diageo Special Releases range, there’s always a splash of briny, peaty Talisker to enjoy at lots of different ages and price points. One of the more fascinating releases – and certainly one of the tastiest – is the new Talisker 45yo Glacial Edge.
Dalmore – The distillery and its whiskies
Dalmore – as a distillery, as a whisky, and as a brand – has had a dynamic, if not enigmatic history. Founded in 1839, almost directly on the shoreline of the Cromarty Firth, it is a Highland whisky that’s obviously north of Inverness and the allure of Speyside, yet seeming not north enough to trade on the geographical x-factor that the likes of Clynelish and Old Pulteney somehow cash in on. It purportedly claims the title of being the first malt whisky to have been commercially exported from Scotland, with cases shipped to Australia way back in 1870. Over the years it has been leased, family owned and operated, joint-ventured, acquired, and absorbed. In more recent times, it’s a brand that has gone down the luxury product road, drawing attention for its old/rare releases and collections that carried eye-wateringly high price tags. But for your average or typical whisky drinker, where does The Dalmore fit in to the current state of play? We’ll answer that in just a moment but, as always, some background might help set the scene…
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Archie Rose Double Malt
It is an interesting time to be a whisky distiller in Australia. The excise rate recently tipped over $100 per litre; new distilleries continue to come to market with their debut release; competition for the consumers’ dollar grows; the back bars at the on-premise venues are more crowded than ever…and all against the backdrop of rising interest rates and falling sales in certain price bands. You’ve thus got to “dip your lid” to the distilleries that are driving onwards and upwards. Archie Rose is one such distillery, and the new Archie Rose Double Malt is a great example of this….
Glenmorangie’s “A Tale of the Forest”
A Tale of the Forest is the new release from Glenmorangie, and is the third in their “A tale of…” series, following A Tale of Cake and A Tale of Winter. A Tale of the Forest is aptly named, for its aromas, flavours, style – and even its production – are all closely linked to the forest. Yes, really!
Let’s get the big and obvious feature of this whisky out of the way first: This is unlike any Glenmorangie you’ve previously tried. It’s an altogether different style, and – whilst it’s got that signature Glenmorangie depth, complexity, and mineralic note – it offers aromas and flavours that will have you thinking you’re a long way from Tain.
Waubs Harbour – Australia’s maritime whisky
With so many new Australian distilleries appearing on the market these days, it’s a challenge keeping up with them all. Whilst there’s no definitive or official number, industry folk estimate there’s currently around 120-140 malt whisky distilleries operating in Australia right now. Of course, the number of distilleries with matured stock being marketed and sold is somewhat less than this (estimates hover somewhere around 90), but the point is this: It’s an increasingly crowded space, and it’s become increasingly challenging for a distillery to stand out from the pack; find its point of difference; and tell a new story. One name that’s definitely singing a new tune is the Waubs Harbour distillery, and its Waubs Harbour whisky.
Waubs Harbour distillery is in Tasmania and, as the name suggests, is located in a coastal location by the water. This geographical fact forms the heart and backbone of Waubs Harbour and its narrative: It is a maritime distillery. The word “maritime” appears almost more times on the distillery’s website than the word “whisky”, and until you’ve checked out the distillery’s location, you could be forgiven for thinking they’re laying it on a bit thick. By drawing comparisons to the likes of Talisker and other Scottish distilleries that talk up the maritime angle, my initial thoughts were that they were overplaying it. And then you see the pictures….
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The Singleton of Glen Ord 40yo
Exciting news for fans of rare and aged whisky this month, with Diageo releasing the third and final expression of The Singleton’s Epicurean Odyssey series. The first and second releases were bottled at 38 and 39 years old respectively, and so perhaps it’s no surprise that the third release is The Singleton of Glen Ord 40yo.
Diageo Special Releases 2022
The annual Diageo Special Releases range is always keenly anticipated around the world each year. Typically unveiled in the UK around October, many international markets don’t release them locally until the following calendar year. And so it is that, in April 2023, many markets are only just now launching the Diageo Special Releases 2022 range.
The Diageo Special Releases – first launched 21 years ago now in 2001 – is a fantastic opportunity to try some of your favourite distilleries in an expression quite unlike the regular version that you’re otherwise familiar with. The Special Releases expression might appear with a different or unique age statement, or might have undergone a different maturation regimen to the regular release. Also of note is that, unlike the regularly available expressions that are typically bottled at 40-43% and have been chillfiltered, the Special Releases are typically bottled at higher cask-strength and remain non-chillfiltered. The annual Diageo Special Releases also often include a distillery or two in the range that actually aren’t regularly bottled or commercially available – and so it’s an opportunity to try a distillery that you might not otherwise encounter.
Macallan Harmony Collection – Intense Arabica
The Macallan’s Harmony Collection burst on the scene last year as the new badging for a limited edition, annual release. The first release (now referred to as Harmony I) celebrated the world of chocolate with its “Rich Cacao” expression. The second release (you guessed it – Harmony II) celebrates the world of coffee, and so The Macallan now brings you The Harmony Collection Intense Arabica.
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That Boutique-y Whisky Company: Return to Oz
Following the success of That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s first Australia Series releases back in 2021, the independent bottler is back with their second run focussing on whiskies from Australia, appropriately titled Return to Oz.
Whisky & Wisdom covered Boutique-y’s original Australia Series back in April 2021, and you can read our original piece here, which gives much of the relevant background and philosophy behind it all. The Return to Oz series shares the same approach and outlook, albeit with some new faces and names in the line-up.
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