“New world” whisky/whiskey is advancing and expanding in many countries around the globe at the moment, and the category is particularly exciting and dynamic, given that most of the producers aren’t shackled by the rules and limitations that constrain, for example, the Scotch whisky distilleries. One country that has truly exploded as a new world producer is the USA, with a host of distilleries showcasing many different styles of whisk(e)y above and beyond the traditional bourbons and ryes of Kentucky. Westward is one such distillery.
Situated in Portland, Oregon, Westward was established as the House Spirits Distillery in 2004. This north-west Pacific region of the USA is the country’s main barley-growing area, and it’s no coincidence that the region was the crucible of the craft brewing phenomenon. Not surprisingly, it wasn’t long before several of the brewers graduated to distilling. Westward is a fantastic example of a distillery that is built off its brewing roots and owes much of its identity and success to its commitment to the malted grain.
For context and comparison here, a lot of the language and “noise” that comes out of Scotland revolves around the distillation and maturation processes. One of the reasons for this is that, for the most part, there’s not many points of difference at the brewing stage: The majority of Scottish distilleries are using the same variety of barley; the same yeast; and are running similar fermentations. This is where Westward stands apart…
Westward brews an artisanal pale ale wash using an ale yeast and employing a slow, low-temperature fermentation. It’s often forgotten that distillation can boost or cut flavour, but it’s through fermentation that the flavours are actually created. Furthering the commitment to the brewed flavours, Westward is careful to produce a spirit-forward whiskey through subtle use of oak. The casks used for maturation are still virgin oak but they’re lightly charred, which helps retain the esters that might otherwise be lost if a heavier char was applied. The whiskies are also bottled relatively young, typically between four and six years, which also prevents the oak from dominating the spirit. For sheer want of a relatable comparison and pigeonhole, Westward’s whiskies have been referred to as being similar to a “Speyside malt”, but such comparisons do an injustice to the fact that this is American Single Malt. And a mighty fine one at that – Westward is the largest independent distiller in the country and has picked up an increasing number of awards in recent years.
Westward has enjoyed a growing presence in Australia, and this culminated in the recent launch of the new Cask Strength release, which is now a permanent offering in the brand’s portfolio. Bottled at 125 Proof (62.5% ABV), the Cask Strength expression won Gold at the 2020 San Francisco Spirits Competition and was the star of the show at the recent launch in Sydney. After an absence of live events and “real” launches due to COVID, it was a refreshing opportunity to head into town on a Wednesday night and re-engage with what whisk(e)y should be about: Good spirit, good people, and good times.
Held at Nel Restaurant in Sydney’s Surry Hills, assembled guests were taken through the four members of Westward’s core range in Australia, with each whiskey beautifully paired to an accompanying dish. Margo Jamieson MC’d the evening and took the audience through the specifics of the brand and the whiskies being tasted. Making use of technology and employing the new Zoom skills we’ve all acquired since COVID, guests were also treated to an audience with Westward’s own Tom Mooney, the distillery’s co-founder and CEO, who joined the room from Oregon via computer hook-up. Tom gave further insights into the distillery, the whiskies, and answered some questions from the floor.
The four whiskies tasted on the night were:
- Westward American Single Malt Whiskey (NAS, but roughly four years old)
- Westward American Single Malt Stout Cask (roughly one year finish in ex-stout beer casks after four years’ regular maturation)
- Westward American Single Malt Cask Strength
- American Single Malt Pinot Noir Cask (two year finish in French Oak, ex-Pinot Noir casks).
The whiskies were superbly paired with the following menu:
(Click on images to enlarge)
While all four whiskies are indeed well crafted and make for delicious drinking, the Cask Strength truly stood out, and not just because of the higher ABV. Rather, the nose was lifted with notes of sweet malt, honey/mead, and soft floral aromas, whilst the palate delivered with rich, beautiful coffee and toffee notes that were superbly fused with the biscuity malt. The higher spirit was not at all aggressive, but sat beautifully integrated, leaving a long and satisfying finish.
For whisk(e)y drinkers looking beyond Scotland for a lighter-styled dram that fills new space on the malt spectrum, Westward should definitely be on your shopping list. Available in Australia through Cambridge Cellars and Boozebud, you can also check out Westward’s website here.
With thanks to Agent99 for the opportunity to attend the launch.
Cheers,
AD
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UPDATE: You might also like our review of the Westward Tempranillo Cask release here.
